Done

Seanm7455 said:

David this is fascinating real world observations and the kind of things i need to hear. The operation costs you guys are showing are below what a spec miata i was driving 10 years ago cost and this car is significantly faster, just truly astounding metrics. It seems this car car has been well thought out. I was looking at Radicals after having driven a few of them, but the fun factor vs cost in this seems so much better. I need to find a place to try one out.

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I was about to put a deposit down on a used Radical SR3. In doing my diligence on radical owners forum the real costs of consumables became more transparent. Several stated overall running costs between 500-700/ hr all said and done. I made the 6 hour drive to look at the both the radical and Rush, and for me that rush was an easy win. The consumables on this thing are just unbeatable

Couple things to add, unless you're a masochist, plug the holes before packing with grease 3/16 vacuum caps work great. Or, if you want to be the indisputable coolest kid on the playground you can print your own custom plug + cover from TPU. ~80 grams is a standard amount of grease and it's already overkill

Reason I had these off was because the outsides were coming loose. I'm going to red thread lock them along with nordlocks, serviceability be damned, I refuse to let these come loose again. Little extra time during service vs peace of mind is an easy trade.

Just a word of caution for those people that may have disassembled their body panels to wrap. Apparently we weren't too careful on the reassembly, and have noticed that the cooling ducts have rubbed on the fuel tank. I have the "original" body panels, not the newer SMC panel versions, so not sure if that is partly the reason. But it is worthwhile to keep an eye on it.

I think there is only one type/brand of that multi-color shift stuff, I had the exact same piece of paper.....

The best I can figure out it does have an expiration (but not labeled as such). I tried to measure rotor temperatures after I opened the bottle a couple of years before when I upgraded my track car brake package, The paint showed crazy high temperatures (like the H color) but the paint on the actual side of the pad (that marked the version of compound) hadn't even burnt off or changed colors. I tried mixing and a few other simple things, but it always showed the ultra high temperatures. No fade, no change in color of the pad surface, or even the paint being burt off was seen on any of the pads. So we tossed the bottle. Not sure what or why... it just was...

Which one is compression and which one is rebound?

How many positions total left / right?

Which way is increasing rebound?

Which way is increasing compression?

What are you guys doing for a front tow hook. I know that one can pull the car from the roll cage but it seems like a traditional front tow hook would be a better solution. I’m curious how tech is going to feel about it when I try and get my logbook. Hopefully they don’t care it’s not on the car. Anyway. What if anything is anyone doing?

I want to add something from the perspective of a relatively new tracker who has virtually no mechanical talent but who does like to drive. I have an early chassis so will be spending this season on new panels, a second set of black wheels, new ARs, a set of slicks, a spare chain (which I don’t need yet), a set of spare pads (which I don’t need yet). It won’t break the bank.

But, what had been most important to me is the amazing support my first season out from David and Blair and Cale AND the owners in this forum. The amount of experience and generosity is truly priceless to me.

I have had a ball learning to handle this car with all the weight behind me, lower top end to be sure than my daily, but so much more responsive all around on tight tracks. For someone experienced considering this car I can only say being on the ground floor of a new player in high performance options had its own set of invaluable rewards.

now that the seat is on sliders and needing seat back support with 7.5 inches of seat adjustment at ten different locking positions the common seat back supports with the sliding round bars will not work.
so I started drawing some of my thoughts on how I could make one that will fit in the 1.5" of space from the harness bar to the seat back and quickly extend out to about 7.5" with the seat slid all the way forward.
this is who I have so far.

13" x 7", E +24mm, HB 56.6mm, BP 4 x 100mm
13" x 8.5", E +24mm, HB 56.6mm, BP 4 x 100mm

Only Braid OE or RAW OE wheels to be used in any RAW Spec Series or NASA ST2 RAW classification.

David Hosie said:

Guys, we are currently working with NASA to get this mod factor reduced. As you will see above the standard mod factor for Sport Racers "Prototypes" with a monocoque chassis is higher at -3.4 for ST2. Obviously that is not us but the current highest mod factor for any other car is a -1, we believe the car should be allowed to be run around 1325# with slicks in ST2. Please note this only applies to cars running in ST2. If you are running in a RUSH SR run group the RUSH rules must be followed, Nankang AR-1s and the stock wing.

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David, any word on these negotiations?

I raced motorcycles for 15 years, the Motion Pro is the way to go but buy it direct from them as the knockoffs are junk.

Fresno Powersports said:

Will do! I like the idea of someone with experience printing the design for a local installer to apply.

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Hey feel free to send me an email! Brad@properppf.com

John the most common issue here on a new car is the throttle cable takes a stretch in the first few days and goes slack. You will notice that the throttle blip cylinder only has 7mm of stroke. Once the cable goes slack from initial stretch the blip is not strong enough to unload the gear box under deceleration loads. This starts to show up with misted or incomplete shifts while shifting down through several gears.

The throttle cable should be adjusted in tension where when letting off the throttle pedal the throttle cam is just contacting the mechanical adjuster screw on the throttle body. This should be checked with the pedal to account for cable friction. If it is not hitting the stop the idle will be too high. If there is cable slack then there is a week blip.

Once the off throttle position is adjusted the full throttle position needs to be checked and set with the pedal stop in the pedal box. The correct way to do this is to remove the air box open the Secondary throttle plates and visually insure that WOT is being achieved without under or over rotation. A quick check can be made by looking at the throttle cam which has an arm with a V point on it. At WOT that arm should be in the vertical position.

I suspect this is whats likely causing your issue, however please also find the cylinder adjustment info below.

The shift cylinder stroke needs to be set at mid stroke when the shift system is at rest. The best way to do this is to disconnect the rod from the shift arm and fully stroke the cylinder in. Wrap a piece of tape around the cylinder rod to mark its fully retracted position. The cylinder has a 30mm stroke so you want to position that tape marker 15 mm from the face of the cylinder with the shift arm making close to a 90 deg angle with the rod. We do sell a 3d printed gauge for the cylinder rod length at mid stroke for those that want it but its really over kill.

Note, the shift system is air operated and has a "small" reservoir, multiple rapid shifts will cause pressure to drop and the cylinder force drops with it. In a scenario where you have a 6th gear straight coming into a 1st or 2nd gear corner you realy need to be timing your down shifts through your braking zone rather than "rushing" them through rapid fire once your speed has decreased. I have included this as there are some drivers with a lot less seat time than John who may not be aware of this.

The plugs are for stoping metal to metal contact between the end of the axle and the concave surfaces of the CV flanges. Contact is not normal there and once the CV joints are bedded in the axle stops are kind of redundant. When the CVs are new they will typically be tight so it is common for the axle to make contact at one end. Once the CVs are bedded in you should actually be able to slide the axle back and forth along its axis, in an out of the CV joints. The axles stop is what limits this. However if the shaft is moving freely it will center itself due to the CV loading. That said if a CV fails or gets stuck the shaft could then make contact with the flange. The only movement however is that of the suspension movement, they are rotating together.

Andor said:

Amazing!!! I am looking forward to racing at these tracks!!!

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Andor if you are planning on going I urge you to get registered ASAP. ALL groups will sell out FAST for both Barber and Ozarks!

David said
Clean chain every 4 hours
Replace chain at 20h intervals (sounded like a conservative chap insurance choice)
Maintain 1/2" chain tension inspect frequently

Check/fill shock pressures daily


@David Hosie what other things should we be maintaining/adjusting besides standard road car stuff we all (should) know?
I think I saw somewhere you said some joints needed greasing?
Diff fluid intervals?

We get asked a LOT for what we recommend for spares. Frankly that is different for each of us, if you are running exclusively where there is a parts dealer at track with you, whether you are traveling half way across the country to events or simply just your budget constraints. All of these will affect your choices.

We have compiled these two basic lists of things to carry that may save your day and prevent a track day from being cut short. The extended list includes everything in the basic list plus basic tuning needs, an extra set of shocks, an extra set of wheels, two sets of tires, a half shaft, and alignment bars (which some of you may already have).

A full list of parts can be found in resources.

NOTE: we will have our new RUSH starter motors by the end of February that we have had made to our specs. We will be able to provide these at 1/2 the cost of the OEM Suzuki / Denso units!

still working a a way to very quickly change the distance of the steering wheel to bring it closer or father away from drivers.
having a quick release telescopic steering shaft/column wold be ideal but no one makes a compact simple one.

talking with Dave I'm going to get a 3" and a 1.5" longer than stock shaft.
to swap out the shafts it took me about 5 minutes so it's not to bad time wise the bitch about it is it's under the dash and lining up the universal joint is a total PITA!
this will be fine for dual drivers of about the same size renting the car/s on the same day.
the problem still is when we have dual drivers of vastly different sizes having to use the same car on the same day.
swapping the shafts out between there runs is going to be hell !

using the two steering wheel quick releases will only take a few seconds but Dave and I both feel that two quick releases are going to make for lots of slop in the steering wheel.
using the double D steering shaft I maybe able to make some kind of a quick release to adjust the steering shafts length?
but Double D shafts tend to have slop in them. having used them on countless builds we have done in our shop I know this all to well!

another option is to spend 1000 plus dollars and get another LMP style wheel and just swap them out.
this too has it's drawbacks one is cost but the other is having to disconnect the connector and reconnect it every time we swap wheels.
no matter how gentle you are doing it enough will take it toll on the connector.

Good advice. I'm not sure I could go 45 minutes down here in Houston in the Rush... It isn't sooo bad once you get moving, but I agree that sitting in the paddock/startline is THE WORST. I have yet to convince the wife to be my umbrella girl on the line 😭

I use a cool suit to survive the start line, and provide some level of cooling during the session. I don't notice it much during the session, but I tend to be more focused on GO GO GO...

This weekend was amazing! Ended up with an overall 1st and 2nd after starting from the back! NASA TX ran an amazing event and we cant wait for the next one at MSR Creson. Really looking forward to having 20+ SR's on track for the Battle of the South, let's dominate the weekend!
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John H said:

I'm pretty sure the chains not even in there but that is nice to have.

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It's not, he tells me he's working on another list for the most common spares.

GTwo said:

David, I used it to pump up my shocks on my 996. The non-proper no loss valve worked fine but I can see how a Schrader and the nicer no loss would work better. I can tell you though it was really hard to pump once the PSI got over 200. I was getting about 1 psi per stoke at that point and it was only the last tiny bit...maybe .5 cm of stroke and that took a lot of force. Nevertheless it worked.

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Bud maybe I should have been clearer on that point! Yeh the pump gets you there but at my age it’s a work out. Ha! It’s a $20 solution to a $600 problem for some, so I wanted to bring it up as an option. N2 is the way to go always, but it’s not something that will work for a lot of our customers. I bet Ben Glenn could get 400psi out of that thing If you challenged him!

Looks like the perfect rig, team Coop going to enjoy this! Now register for The Battle of the South in ST2! Ha!

While the most common question we are asked is..... Is it road legal! This is a really bad idea! The SR is in now way anywhere close to a streetable car, even if you could do it legally, which you cant it would be a very bad idea. We sell the car on the basis that it will never be run on public roads. It says this right on the MCO! Most underwriters contact the manufacturer of low volume cars when an insurance request is made, even for kit registrations. If they were to contact us we would be obligated to notify them in writing that the vehicle is for off road applications only, We would loose our world manufacturers code if we didnt!