Solo track day

I reached out to a guy on the other side of the country selling a Rush SR. He responded

“Let me know if you're still interested. My main reason for getting out is my track buddy quit cold turkey, and this car is not solo-friendly -- a helping hand is almost required to remove the bodywork and you have to remove the bodywork every session.”

Almost all of my track days are solo. Will this be an issue?

air pump for shocks

ok so the air pump for the bicycle shocks if you tried using it you know once you get up in range the pump will start to be a total pain in the ??? palm of your hand.
now try doing more than one car at the tracks and you will be hating life.

to shoot a high powered completion air rifle you need a pump that can pump up the tanks to 1500 to 2K lbs this got me thinking .
for the bikes your in most cases only needing to pump up the shocks between 100 to 200 LBS and for that the bike shock pumps work fine.
the problem with the air rifle pumps is the air gauges! because your needing to pump to a higher pressure they are not to accurate at the lower pressures we need for our shocks there is also the problem of the hose connection to the shocks them selves.
I ordered another pump not wanting to butcher up the pump I have. when I get the new pump I will remove the gauge it comes with and order another more accurate gauge for the pressures we need for the shocks. that's once I know what thread the gauge has on it.
the threads for the no lose air valve should be a problem it's a common thread.

this should be compact enough to just keep in the trailer so we don't have to lug around a high pressure tank of nitrogen were ever we go.

if it works I will let you know! if not it's only 70 bucks lost so not a big deal.


dead pedal

as we are doing a few pedal box repairs it got my wife and I thinking.
I guess if your only using your left foot to do all your braking having a dead pedal is a problem.
my wife and I use both feet to do our braking depending on the corner and how we need to use our brakes.
at times we will be flat to the floor on the gas and touch the brakes with our left foot to put weight on the front wheels to get the car to turn in like for the up hill at lime rock.
not having a dead pedal is like when I have been driving a manual shift car and I get into an automatic my foot goes for the clutch pedal that's not there.
last evening I started to design a dead pedal that bolts onto the foot plate of the pedal boxes.

Brake Pads

I'm collecting information in this thread about brake pads that customers have run and data on the stock pads. I am not recommending pads on behalf of RAW, this is simply data that I have gathered in my own searching and consolidation of existing data.

The Rush SR runs calipers and rotors on all four corners that are the same size as the front pads on the Elise 05+, S2 Exige S (not S240/260, which had larger AP Racing calipers) and 211. This is known as the 2593 shape, which is shown below:


Note there are 14.6mm thicknesses and 15mm thicknesses (also notated as 1587). According to Dave, 15mm will not fit, so make sure you get the 2593 shape.

The stock pads are a R1 Concepts competition pad, it's more of an endurance pad than anything. Initial bite is not very aggressive, but they are relatively inexpensive ($74.26/axle on the Spare Parts List) and will last a long time (20+hrs). Rotating them front to back will increase life as the fronts will show more wear.

Some drivers like more bite. From other posts by owners, the following pads have been tried with success:
  • Hawk HB180 S.560 (these are easy to find, see compounds list and attached photo with compound temperatures)
  • Performance Friction PFC-11 and PFC-13 (can't find a vendor yet, please let me know if you find one!)
  • G-Loc R12 (buy at InoKinetic)
As for compound, keep in mind that this is a light car so your pads aren't going to as hot as heavier cars will. This thread on rotor temperatures is a good illustration of that. In general, most amateur drivers should see around 800F, assume pads are roughly 200F more. John's a hot shoe and saw 1300F. Adjust according to your desired track and driving style.

Changing them out is not much different than doing so on an Elise.

If you have the older Braid silver wheels on your car, some modification is needed! See this helpful photo from an owner who is running PFC-11s. The wheels do not provide enough clearance and so a slight shaving of about 1mm is necessary. If you have the newer black RAW wheels, you should not have this problem as they were designed to provide just a little more clearance.


As always, if you change your pads, be sure to bed them properly. And if you have questions or need a new set of pads, call your dealer or RAW!

To other owners: what are you running? How do you like the pads?


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Oil analysis is worth the money.

If you're unaware of it's existence, oil analysis is where you send a used sample of oil in and they preform some basic tests. The most important of the tests is mass spectrometry which tells you what is in the oil (that shouldn't be).

I've had two engines saved (BMWs), now unfortunately I can add a third, the crazy high aluminum content prompted a compression test which tested quite bad.

My cars still under warranty so Rush will be covering it. Many mfg. don't have any warranty let alone one that covers the engine, so that's always been pretty impressive.

The BMWs it saved, one was an improperly built motor (not by me) where the pistons knocked the oil squirters off and the forged crankshaft clearanced the oil pan on it's own :rolleyes: . The second had a very slow coolant to oil leak in the head gasket between the coolant jacket and the low pressure oil drain (meaning it's impossible to detect any other way and causes the oil to be highly degraded).

I've spent $1k+ on oil analysis over the years but I've certainly saved more.


  • Locked
[SOLD] 2021 Rush SR/Chassis 22

NASA Florida Region 2022 TT2 Regional Championship winning car.
Full Body Wrap in a "Shadow Racing 1976 Can Am Livery".
No expense has been spared on this car, never crashed.
Can compete with NASA in TT2 Time Trials, ST2 Race Class, the Rush Race Series or with any track day organization.

Asking $48,500.00

19 Hours logged – about 14 hours underload, 1,082 miles

The car is fully loaded, all factory updates completed, all factory hardware replaced, factory rod end bearings replaced with Aurora PTFE lined rod end bearings, and includes the following:

SR Race Spec Package
  • RAW Adjustable Head Containment System
  • Carbon Rear Wing & RAW Adjustable Mount
  • Extended Front Splitter w/ Adjustable Stays
  • RAW Brake Light System, Comprising 2 Rear Lights, Rain Lights
  • Brake Pressure Sensors, Wiring & Installation, Requires Aim Dash
  • RAW LED Front Running Lights
  • 5 lb SFI Fire System with Mechanical Pull
  • SR LMP Style Carbon Fiber Wheel
  • Large Seat Option (with seat insert)
  • Wired for Radio System (IMSA Style)
Data Logging Installed
  • AIM MXS 1.2 Color Dash Data Logger
  • AIM DL ECU Cable & Installation
  • AIM SmartyCam GP HD Rev 2.2
  • Chain Guard
Braid 13 x 7" Front Wheels - NanKang AR-1 185/60 R13 (used)
Braid 13 x 8.5" Rear Wheels - NanKang AR-1 205/60 R13 (used)

Spares Package Also Available
  • Complete new body
  • Spare set of new mirrors
  • Spare set of Braid Rims (4) with used tires mounted
  • One set of new NanKang Tires
  • New set of rotors with new hardware
  • New chain X2
  • Two spare starters
  • One Spare dampener
  • Additional Springs
  • Box of misc hardware/shims for camber
  • DID Chain Removal/Install Tool
  • Dampener wrenches
  • Suzuki Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) adjustment and test tool 09900-28631
Contact Doug at (813) 957-5568


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CV's plus one

so the customers car is back in the shop for more service work. sense it was in the shop and did two track events I wanted to check the CV's after replacing one complete half shaft and rebuilding the other one.
as I thought from the start we will be repackage the CV's every 4 events.
the totally pointless debate on how much CV grease I used and how it didn't do anything but fill the CV boot with grease looks to be totally untrue!
yup a bit of fling out but that's not uncommon after all the reason for the boot it to keep grease in. it and dirt and crap out.
I pulled the end caps in the half shafts and they had no wear at all measuring to a new one.

because of the tool we use to pack CV's and we do them on many cars from the boot side the air and squeeze out pushes the grease out between the CV and stub axles until there is no more air and grease is pushing out from around the hole CV stub axles.
we are also getting waste from it filling the area where the half shaft goes thru the CV.
I'm guessing and it's a guess mind you we get about 10 to 15% waste. because it maybe dirty it's just waste we do not put it back in the tube.
is this where the extra grease is going and why we use more than one tube? maybe????

as for the plastic end caps . agree or disagree if your repacking the CV's I would tend to replace them at the same time it's not a high dollar item.
do the end caps make contact with the stub axles on the rush cars? yup they do! I made up a few for our personal cars out of Delrin we will see how they work out for us.
IMO I would not remove the caps and run it with out them. plastic on metal IMO is better than metal on metal plus after all Dave put them there for a reason.

for our shop we tend to buy in bulk we don't buy just one tube of CV grease at a time we buy it by the case the same with all fluids and filters.
if your package your CV's by hand you will no doubt also be using a bit more CV grease because of waste so you too could end up using more that the single tube or tub has in it.



Perspective buyer ?? Wet weather

Live in the PNW primary tracks are The Ridge and Pacific Raceway. Year round.

How is an open cockpit in the rain? Both tracks require booking far enough in advance I won’t be able to avoid the rain. Am I going to get soaked, will airflow keep rain off my visor, any other issues I have not thought of?

Second. I talked to a prior owner from FL. He said none of the bolts and fasteners were stainless. He laid ~$900 and replaced everything with stainless. I’m wondering if this would be an issue for me in a wet climate.

Thank you

First Run

we did our break in runs at the track with the new rush cars.
if the smile on me wife face you can see thru her helmet doesn't tell you everything all we can say is WOW!
I started racing cars and track event's when I was 17 and karts along with motorcycles at the age of 7 for the last 20 years we have been doing about 50 to 60 track events a season so I have loads of seat time under my belt. in that time I have driven some pretty fast cars like LMP challenge , Porsche cup , MX5 cup , Ferrari's , countless motorcycle powered cars like F1000s , swift's, dwarf cars , legend cars and on and on plus the 7 and now 8 track cars we own now.
the 1st few run sessions in the rush cars we couldn't push much as we were doing the break in runs but towards the end of the 3rd and our last two run sessions we were able to start to push the cars.
I left the cars for breaking in at there stock setting all I did was check the balance and the alignment set the stock tire pressures.
the day was a chilly and overcast so we were not looking to set any lap records plus it was just a track day.
with the car on one run I lapped every car once some twice and a few three times. two cars were heavy hitters being a GT3 RSR Porsche and a friends fully built Camaro with 800 plus HP running on R7's. after the run he comes over and asked about the rush car. things like HP when I told him the HP of the engine and then he looked at what tires we are running and asked about them my reply was they are 100 TW tires all he could say was WTF! he is a pro class driver so in no way a squid!
I passed him in the twisty bits and he said he thought he would pass me back on the main straight. that never happened and as the lap went on I just kept pulling on him.
at Thompson with the rush my average lap times were mid 1:14's the best was a low 1:14 I left some on the plate as it was a break in day so with a proper setup and better track conditions the times will drop much more. but I was so pleased at the end of the day if Dave was there I would have kissed him!!!!
these cars out of the box are very drivable giving great feedback and just don't do stupid things under you.
I have to tip my hat to Dave as when I was setting up the cars and prepping them he gave tough to even the simple thing.
when I was the crew chief on the LMP challenge team I wish the chassis builder had the same though on those cars.

the attention the cars got was nuts! we have been to the tracks with some pretty rare and unusual cars but they didn't get the same attention that the rush cars got.
I hardly had time to lube the chains and fuel them with people stopping over asking about the cars.
when I got up the next morning my emails in box had 16 people inquiring about the cars the next morning I had 22 days later I'm still getting inquiries about the cars.

before we drove the cars I was reading posting about things like the mirrors shaking the brake pedal to hard and so on.
sorry I don't have a problem with the things people were saying! do the mirrors stay rock solid ? NO ! but I sure don't have a problem with them. I have driven cars that are far worse like the LMPC car at 200MPH even our other sports racer has worse mirror shake.
brake pedal: it's Ferm as it should be and give very good feel.

Dave thanks for designing and building a great car !!!!


How much grease the CV can hold + Free-ish tool for you.

(Tool details a few posts down)

Unfortunately I had the... lets call it "opportunity" to go ahead and demonstrate the volume of grease our CVs can hold. You need at most 65ml of grease to completely fill the CV joint and stub axle, and you'll already be wasting some.

CV2 is ~1g/ml, Krytox is ~2g/ml no idea what RCV is.

You guys that don't like CV2 and looking at using liquid gold don't have to over order.

Using some .94g/ml grease:
50 grams, not quite fully packed, but already a good chunk of that grease will be in the boot within 5 minutes.
60 grams, totally packed, but the results will just be even more in the boot.
100 grams... 😨 ❌

Assembly including the stub axle zeroed out. (orange tool flows grease back to front to remove all air)

50 grams of grease.

Still 50 grams, just packed the grease into the nook of the boot flange just to make sure every bit of air is gone.

60 grams of grease.....

100 grams of grease.... even more would be pushed out with the axle pushed in.

This is the end of the post no one needed or asked for, but science is fun!


Towing - single axle trailer?

With my car on order with Rush, now I am *rushing* to get a trailer set up.

My daily Model Y has a 3,500lb towing capacity so should be plenty but I would prefer the smallest trailer possible for charging efficiency.

Thoughts on a single axle trailer like this?
I figure with such a light car single axle will be alright?
Or any recommendations would be helpful.

anti fog visor

with the rush open top cars it seams I'm back in the days I was racing motorcycles for 30 years with the visor fogging up in rain.
this wasn't a problem with our MX5 cup cars even though they are open top cars just a little anti fog wipes on the inside of the visor would work for them.
for the motorcycles I would use the pinlock visors for wet weather riding and they never fogged up. sadly they don't have a listing for my particular Bell GTX3 helmet or our other auto racing helmets. pinlocks listings are for motorcycle helmets and as we all know motorcycles helmets are not fire rated so they can't be used in cars.
I ordered a few of the visors that look like they should work for our auto racing helmets so I will see.

Should I buy

Looking for some advice here before I place a deposit.

Thinking of selling my current fun car and getting a Rush.

Wondering how hard it is to work on a car like this?

My limited mechanical experience includes:
Replacing rotors, calipers, pads.
Installing intakes, headers, catbacks.
Oil change.

That’s about it and I’m wondering if I would be biting off more then I can chew getting a real race car like this in terms of maintenance.

Ultimately I would track the car 2-3 days a year- what kind of maintenance could I expect with this?