The Ultimate Starter Kit

[VelvetFog45]

Ok Rush fanatics...I'm on order for chassis #303, anxiously awaiting the fuel tank solve and wanted to use the time I have prepping my garage and trailer versus pouting about the delay in getting the car. The question is simple, for all of you that already have the car and have raced it, what are the essential and nice to have tools and equipment that I'll need once the car arrives. I'm coming from Spec Miata so I have the basics (jack stands, tool sets etc.) but would like to ensure that I have the right stuff for when the car arrives.

Let me have it! Thanks so much!

 

[DrPyro2k]

For Tools... GOOD Hex keys (I'm partial to Proto Advanced Hex, as they don't roll like regular hex keys and some of the hex used on the Rush are nearly at their torque limits), Torque wrench, chain break tool, Nitrogen tank for shocks (or air pump), Chain lube & Cleaner, Loctite (red and blue), all other normal fluids, small jack (makes it super easy to lube chain), plus all of the "regular" stuff

For Spares... I have a ton of stuff. Bolts/Nuts, full body panels, shocks, tires (Wet & dry), chain, oil pressure sensor, throttle and clutch cable (mine is drive by cable), brake pads, rotors (not really needed), half shafts. Some racers have spare A-Arms, and uprights.

I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff, but this is a start.

 

[VelvetFog45]

Yup - those are killer recommendations. I'm also curious what the consensus is on jacks/jackstands etc. I've seen formula lifts mostly...are those best? Appreciate the list!

 

[DrPyro2k]

I have seen 3 main type of lifts used on the Rush.... 1) The formula style lifts that have screw jacks at both ends of the car. 2) "Universal" Quick lift - the kind with a flat plate that you leverage up and 3) Small Jack.

I have contemplated all 3 types at one point or another and each has their advantages and disadvantages. For "dealers" who may be doing setup and work on multiple cars, want something transportable then Option 1 is okay, but price can be prohibitive for a single car. Option 2 seems to be very popular as it lets you easily pick up the front of the car without taking off the front clam shell. I just thought it was too cumbersome and bulky for transport. So I went with Option #3... It was cheap (Harbor Freight) and it is easy to toss in the back of the truck for races but you do need to remove the clam shell in front to lift the nose.

MK Technologies in Canada makes some really great and high quality lifts (and other stuff) if you are so inclined. I have a set of scales and alignment plates from them. I don't use them as much as I probably should...but they are nice.

 

[VelvetFog45]

I have seen 3 main type of lifts used on the Rush.... 1) The formula style lifts that have screw jacks at both ends of the car. 2) "Universal" Quick lift - the kind with a flat plate that you leverage up and 3) Small Jack.

I have contemplated all 3 types at one point or another and each has their advantages and disadvantages. For "dealers" who may be doing setup and work on multiple cars, want something transportable then Option 1 is okay, but price can be prohibitive for a single car. Option 2 seems to be very popular as it lets you easily pick up the front of the car without taking off the front clam shell. I just thought it was too cumbersome and bulky for transport. So I went with Option #3... It was cheap (Harbor Freight) and it is easy to toss in the back of the truck for races but you do need to remove the clam shell in front to lift the nose.

MK Technologies in Canada makes some really great and high quality lifts (and other stuff) if you are so inclined. I have a set of scales and alignment plates from them. I don't use them as much as I probably should...but they are nice.

Love it. Thanks!

 

[TimG]

Ok Rush fanatics...I'm on order for chassis #303, anxiously awaiting the fuel tank solve and wanted to use the time I have prepping my garage and trailer versus pouting about the delay in getting the car. The question is simple, for all of you that already have the car and have raced it, what are the essential and nice to have tools and equipment that I'll need once the car arrives. I'm coming from Spec Miata so I have the basics (jack stands, tool sets etc.) but would like to ensure that I have the right stuff for when the car arrives.

Let me have it! Thanks so much!

In addition to previous excellent answers, you will need a battery charger compatible with a Braille or other lithium batteries, swap the alligator clips for an Anderson plug (your Rush has one as a charging port in the back). Pretty much any kind of Jack works in the back, but the front is so low and the splitter extends so far forward, the only jack that works is the formula car style (flat plate levered up). B&G is a well known brand carried by Summit. The rear clip is pretty easy to get on and off, so I just put it on a stand (I am 5’7, 67 years old with no immediate assistants) but the front is more awkward with less handholds. I bolted a kayak lift(a couple pulleys, rope with hooks and long nylon straps) to the ceiling and use it to lift the front clip up and out of the way. With the clip off you can use pretty much any jack. Easily the best $50 I ever spent.

 

[Eric H]

If you recommend a particular kayak lift or features to look for please post link to info. Thanks and thanks to all for the good suggestions!

 

[AddLightness]

Ok Rush fanatics...I'm on order for chassis #303, anxiously awaiting the fuel tank solve and wanted to use the time I have prepping my garage and trailer versus pouting about the delay in getting the car. The question is simple, for all of you that already have the car and have raced it, what are the essential and nice to have tools and equipment that I'll need once the car arrives. I'm coming from Spec Miata so I have the basics (jack stands, tool sets etc.) but would like to ensure that I have the right stuff for when the car arrives.

Let me have it! Thanks so much!

I find myself in the same boat. I just did my first track day in late May, am using a new 16’ utility trailer for transport, and am struggling to get the trailer properly outfitted and the car properly “turned” for my next track day at the Glen on June 8th.

I hate this awkwardness and feeling of not being knowledgeable as of yet of what maintenance I need to do and how to do it but I’m sure this will come with time.

I wish the community was larger and there were others close to me geographically to lean on.

Otherwise, I did have an a fantastic first day out on LRP with the Rush. I told myself I’d take it easy the first day but, well….that didn’t quite happen

 

[TimG]

I find myself in the same boat. I just did my first track day in late May, am using a new 16’ utility trailer for transport, and am struggling to get the trailer properly outfitted and the car properly “turned” for my next track day at the Glen on June 8th.

I hate this awkwardness and feeling of not being knowledgeable as of yet of what maintenance I need to do and how to do it but I’m sure this will come with time.

I wish the community was larger and there were others close to me geographically to lean on.

Otherwise, I did have an a fantastic first day out on LRP with the Rush. I told myself I’d take it easy the first day but, well….that didn’t quite happen

Been there! A couple tips: be careful filling the rad. If it gets air pockets (usually upper corners) it can melt the solder (or whatever the sealant is) and leak. After your track day, look for grease thrown out from the cv joints. There should not be any, so it indicates the bolts may have loosened and your cv joint is self-destructing. Swap your tires side to side to get a few more laps out of them (some tracks are harder on one side than the other). If you have a single fuel tank, it might last 30 minutes if you are lucky. Pay attention to the time on track to avoid an embarrassing out-of-gas experience or two.

 

[bcarrollWDC]

I keep coming back to this thread for advice so I'll ask here:

What tool do I need to remove the OEM oil filter on the engine? I was expecting one with a bolt head but it's just a good old fashioned oil filter.

Thanks in advance!

 

[TimG]

I keep coming back to this thread for advice so I'll ask here:

What tool do I need to remove the OEM oil filter on the engine? I was expecting one with a bolt head but it's just a good old fashioned oil filter.

Thanks in advance!

It is a bit tricky to get off. I used what I call a python wrench (plastic handle with a rubber cinch strap). Was slow going as not much room to get more than a fraction of a turn at a time. Replaced original filter with bolt head one and my life got a lot easier. Cover your exhaust with something impermeable (I wrap tinfoil around the section) otherwise some oil will drip onto the heat wrap . Will smoke for 20 minutes when you start the car.

 

[Late Entry Motorsports]

Rush Spare Parts	Customer Tools
Spare Wheels & Tires	Tire Pressure Gauge
14T Sprocket	Air Compressor
Front Sprocket Nut & Washer	Floor Jack
Axle Nut	Wheel Chocks
RAWPP-126 – Wheel Nut (Recommend at Least 4 Spares)
Starter	Torque Wrench 20-150#
Variety Pack of M6, M8 & M10 Bolts, Nuts & Washers	GripEdge Metric Allen Set
Clutch Cable	Tee Handel Allen Wrench’s
Chain	Basic Mechanics Hand Tool Set
Throttle Cable (Only on Older Chassis)	Pliers Set
Axle (Same Right & Left)	Basic Prybar Set
Axle Flange Bolts	Adjustable Wrenches
Hammer Set
Neutral Select Switch	36"Long 1/2" Breaker Bar
51600 - Steering Wheel Cable	18" Long 1/2" Extension
ATM Micro Low Profile Fuse Kit	19mm Wheel Socket
40A Fuse ATC	Impact Gun (Small 1/2 or Large 3/8)
Misc Electrical Connectors	17mm Wrench's (Multiples)
Speed Emulator	16mm Wrench's
Comp/Fuel Pump 30A Relay	10mm Wrench's
Brake Light Switch	13mm Wrench's
150PSI Transducer	Screw Drivers
32 mm Socket for Axles
AIM Camera Lens	36 mm Socket for Front Sprocket
SD Card for AIM Smarty Cam	Drill Bits (Step Bits are a Great Option)
USB Cable MINI USB AIM	Wood Sliding Ruler
12PT 8mm & 10mm
(2) Brake Caliper Pin & Retaining Clip	Paint Pen
Brake Pad Sets (Same Shape Front & Rear)
3/8 Impact Gun
Splitter, Splitter Stays, Pucks & Hardware	Drill
Splitter	Vacuum
Splitter Mounts	Leaf Blower
Front Bumper
Steering Wheel Cable	Battery Charger w/ Anderson Connector
Jump Pack w/ Anderson Connector
Brake Fluid	Euro 5 OBD Connector & OBD Reader
Engine Oil - 4T Motorcycle	Multimeter
White Lithium Grease
Broom & Squeegee
Fire Extinguisher	Canopy
Detailing Products - Glass Cleaner, Quick Details	Car Cover / Tarp
Red & Blue Loctite
Nitrile Gloves	Fuel Jug
Racers Tape (Gaffers Tape)	Fuel Filler Neck
Chain Lube	Jack Stands
Soapy Water	Body Work Stands
Distilled Water
Oil Drying Rags
Trash Bags

 

[Late Entry Motorsports]

It is a bit tricky to get off. I used what I call a python wrench (plastic handle with a rubber cinch strap). Was slow going as not much room to get more than a fraction of a turn at a time. Replaced original filter with bolt head one and my life got a lot easier. Cover your exhaust with something impermeable (I wrap tinfoil around the section) otherwise some oil will drip onto the heat wrap . Will smoke for 20 minutes when you start the car.

I keep coming back to this thread for advice so I'll ask here:

What tool do I need to remove the OEM oil filter on the engine? I was expecting one with a bolt head but it's just a good old fashioned oil filter.

Thanks in advance!

First time drive a big screw driver through the cartrige, the factory glues them on and it is super hard.

After the first it should be able to be done by hand or a small filter wrench.

 

[TimG]

Rush Spare Parts	Customer Tools
Spare Wheels & Tires	Tire Pressure Gauge
14T Sprocket	Air Compressor
Front Sprocket Nut & Washer	Floor Jack
Axle Nut	Wheel Chocks
RAWPP-126 – Wheel Nut (Recommend at Least 4 Spares)
Starter	Torque Wrench 20-150#
Variety Pack of M6, M8 & M10 Bolts, Nuts & Washers	GripEdge Metric Allen Set
Clutch Cable	Tee Handel Allen Wrench’s
Chain	Basic Mechanics Hand Tool Set
Throttle Cable (Only on Older Chassis)	Pliers Set
Axle (Same Right & Left)	Basic Prybar Set
Axle Flange Bolts	Adjustable Wrenches
Hammer Set
Neutral Select Switch	36"Long 1/2" Breaker Bar
51600 - Steering Wheel Cable	18" Long 1/2" Extension
ATM Micro Low Profile Fuse Kit	19mm Wheel Socket
40A Fuse ATC	Impact Gun (Small 1/2 or Large 3/8)
Misc Electrical Connectors	17mm Wrench's (Multiples)
Speed Emulator	16mm Wrench's
Comp/Fuel Pump 30A Relay	10mm Wrench's
Brake Light Switch	13mm Wrench's
150PSI Transducer	Screw Drivers
32 mm Socket for Axles
AIM Camera Lens	36 mm Socket for Front Sprocket
SD Card for AIM Smarty Cam	Drill Bits (Step Bits are a Great Option)
USB Cable MINI USB AIM	Wood Sliding Ruler
12PT 8mm & 10mm
(2) Brake Caliper Pin & Retaining Clip	Paint Pen
Brake Pad Sets (Same Shape Front & Rear)
3/8 Impact Gun
Splitter, Splitter Stays, Pucks & Hardware	Drill
Splitter	Vacuum
Splitter Mounts	Leaf Blower
Front Bumper
Steering Wheel Cable	Battery Charger w/ Anderson Connector
Jump Pack w/ Anderson Connector
Brake Fluid	Euro 5 OBD Connector & OBD Reader
Engine Oil - 4T Motorcycle	Multimeter
White Lithium Grease
Broom & Squeegee
Fire Extinguisher	Canopy
Detailing Products - Glass Cleaner, Quick Details	Car Cover / Tarp
Red & Blue Loctite
Nitrile Gloves	Fuel Jug
Racers Tape (Gaffers Tape)	Fuel Filler Neck
Chain Lube	Jack Stands
Soapy Water	Body Work Stands
Distilled Water
Oil Drying Rags
Trash Bags

I would suggest including a “no-air” radiator funnel and Water Wetter or similar product.