You can load forward or backwards, no real issue. It is more of a matter of getting your weight distribution correct on the trailer/truck. I believe you want 10 - 15% of the total weight of your loaded trailer on the hitch. I have no issue with pulling the car a little further forward on my trailer to get the right balance, but each trailer is different.

I love winches... fudge pushing a car or driving it onto a trailer!!! It is simple, one person, and very easy operation. It also protects you from those times when you are leaving at 5am and there is no help or no drivable car. Just do it!

Enclosed trailers are nice. They let you store things for races, protect you and your car from rain/hail, and can protect the car from prying eyes on long hauls. The problem is they are more expensive and the sky can be the limit on costs. I use an open trailer since that is what I used before I got the Rush. It is a drop load, so loading cars is sooooo easy. I have learned to remove the steering wheel, cover my cameras in Ziplocks, and cover the AIM in a plastic grocery bag and I have zero issues with driving in thunderstorms with the Rush. Yes, I have to dry out the seat as it holds A LOT of water, but nothing is worse for wear. Would I prefer an enclosed trailer.? Yes... mostly to hold my spare tires, spare body panels, and tool boxes when I go to races. I just need to sell my current trailers, but I'm disappointed with their costs...

Hear ya on the enclosed trailer and completely agree. First, I gotta remember to put the 2x4 down But for the remainder of the year, I'll just be learning at a local track that has a membership program. Its only 40 minutes away and I'm retired, so I'll have it all loaded up the nite before and get my fix in the next day, home by nap time!
Not even sure I'll ever race......the sanctioning bodies requirements I find a little odd, if I do race it will definitely be an enclosed trailer with some living space and just stay at the track all weekend. But after 10yrs motocross and 10yrs of triathlons that whole itch has been well scratched.

A piece of 2x4 will take care of that rolling away concern. I haven't had an issue in any of the paddocks I've been in so I stopped using it. The drop decks are convenient for loading and unloading but I like all the tools and spares storage plus weather protection an enclosed trailer provides.

Welcome to the Family!

Have FUN!!

Just picked up Chassis 199!

crash-freak said:

Hi everyone,

I’m seriously considering purchasing a Rush SR as my next track car, but I have a couple of questions before making the leap. I’d appreciate any insights from current owners or those with experience with the car.

1. Safety Concerns – Frontal Crash Structure
The Rush SR looks like an incredible machine, but its compact size and minimal frontal crash structure give me pause. I’ve read that it features a front aluminum crash box, anti-intrusion panels, and optional upgrades like a halo-style roll bar. However, how does this translate to real-world safety in the event of a frontal collision? Is there enough protection compared to something like a Radical or SRF or other lightweight track cars?

2. Realistic Running Costs
The advertised running cost of ~$120/hour for the Rush SR is very appealing, especially compared to something like a Radical SR3, which can run $300–$400/hour when factoring in engine rebuilds and consumables. For those who own or operate a Rush SR, how close is that $120/hour figure to reality? Does it include typical consumables like tires, brakes, and fuel? Or are there hidden costs (e.g., frequent maintenance or rebuilds) that push it closer to Radical territory?

I’m trying to balance performance, safety, and operating costs before committing. Any advice or firsthand experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

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1 - naturally because you are in a much smaller car, you think better to make

crash-freak said:

Hi everyone,

I’m seriously considering purchasing a Rush SR as my next track car, but I have a couple of questions before making the leap. I’d appreciate any insights from current owners or those with experience with the car.

1. Safety Concerns – Frontal Crash Structure
The Rush SR looks like an incredible machine, but its compact size and minimal frontal crash structure give me pause. I’ve read that it features a front aluminum crash box, anti-intrusion panels, and optional upgrades like a halo-style roll bar. However, how does this translate to real-world safety in the event of a frontal collision? Is there enough protection compared to something like a Radical or SRF or other lightweight track cars?

2. Realistic Running Costs
The advertised running cost of ~$120/hour for the Rush SR is very appealing, especially compared to something like a Radical SR3, which can run $300–$400/hour when factoring in engine rebuilds and consumables. For those who own or operate a Rush SR, how close is that $120/hour figure to reality? Does it include typical consumables like tires, brakes, and fuel? Or are there hidden costs (e.g., frequent maintenance or rebuilds) that push it closer to Radical territory?

I’m trying to balance performance, safety, and operating costs before committing. Any advice or firsthand experiences would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Click to expand...

find me on FB and we can chat, but #2 is correct........its the main reason I love the RUSH.
#1 is not only about how safe it is, but just knowing that you are in a much smaller car, your thoughts are different.

Thx to all....kinda what I thought but knowing my luck I'll hop out of the car go to spool out the cable and hear "Hey dude your cars rolling away".
Thinking a drop deck and just drive it on and spool it out backwards is going to be my plan

JChapman is right. I winch in backwards, but it is the same thing.
Put the car in neutral, push it around until it is lined up with you ramps and winch in.
The key is to have a winch with a wireless remote so you can walk the car in, adjusting the steering wheel to get it lined up to your E-track.

I don't winch in backwards but still need to adjust alignment with the trailer's e-track regularly. I leave the car in neutral and push it around while turning the steering wheel to position where I need it. The car is very light and easy to move on a flat surface.

Hi, I just posted Chassis #113 for sale on this website. I can be reached at text 239-216-6220 if you have additional questions.

Welcome to the forum.

I'll address the second question first... I have owned my Rush for over 2 years. Running costs are indeed that low (or close to that), IF and ONLY IF, you keep on the maintenance and make sure bolts are tight and don't do stupid stuff. I have changed tires, brake pads, chain and shock rebuilds... and that is about it from "normal" wear items. Stupid costs have been shock rebuild (mine were the original shocks and you HAD to pressurize them up nearly every other session.. I didn't do that the first time), and gear box seal (don't ask...). I drive 8.5/10, don't tend to jump curbs much, and have kept it on track. So I don't have nearly the wear and tear that a fellow owner has who DOES drive 10/10 (and sometimes over). He has had much more issues as he tries very hard to get that 0.1 second. His best drive our local track at 1.38, but I'm "only" 1.42. Others have spent quite a bit on starters, body panels, etc from pushing it too hard. Even at 8.5/10 it is still a blistering fast car.

As for safety... This is a tough topic as there is a lot of gut feelings about it. The cage is quite strong, and one of the fellow owners did roll his car and you could barely tell with a minor dent in the roll hoop. I originally had the "non-Trident" version of the car, and recently had Rush upgrade mine to the Trident as I do feel that is safer. However, defensive driving with the Rush (or even a Radical) is THE BEST approach. When racing with heavier cars, I will be extra careful when passing to make sure they see me as we are small and low. I try hard to stay out of "the vortex of danger" unless I'm SURE they saw me. That said, this is still an open cockpit car, so appropriate caution and heads-up driving is absolutely required. Even with this, it is still highly recommended to use proper headgear and not the bare minimum SA2020 that most HPDEs or race organizations require. The racers typically use FIA 8860 ABP which i believe was developed after the death of one of the Formula One drivers. These helmets are designed with smaller eye holes and significantly thicker material above the eye sockets to provide maximum protection in open cockpit cars. Only you can decide if a race car is "safe enough"....

Orca 992 said:

I did. I did an unplanned test drive and second lap had an 'oh sh*t I'm going to buy one' moments. Looking forward to the learning curve!

Thanks for the pics!

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You will love the car. I was finally starting to feel comfortable just as our season ended. I did 1757 Km's from breaking it in at Club M to the end of our track days at CMP. Looking forward to this year, will be doing our full Libre race series up here.

I did. I did an unplanned test drive and second lap had an 'oh sh*t I'm going to buy one' moments. Looking forward to the learning curve!

Thanks for the pics!

I'm assuming you bought the car from Bruce, you are very fortunate to have him at your disposal, he is a wealth of knowledge and a great guy. I had my Rush delivered to him and spent two days breaking it in at Club Motorsports last August, an awesome track! Same designer as my home track, Calabogie Motorsports Park.
And your trailer question, I winch mine in backwards, works great with the remote as well as that allows me to steer the car and pull it in at the same time.