If anyone is looking for longer studs, below are some inexpensive ones that fit with light modification. (you can also buy ARP for 4x the cost).

You need to grind down one side of the head slightly to fit because it's a bigger diameter than the original. They are also a little long (2" fully threaded or 2.5" with bullnose are the "right" length, these are 2.75 bull nose).

The jobs easy, you can hammer out the old ones (right way is to press but not really needed, hammer it after removing the bearing while it's in your hand so you're only shocking the stud). You do have to remove the wheels bearings though, and on the rear that means breaking the axle nut loose. You just need a bearing tool to pull the new ones in.


There are also some that already have a notch in them that may fit without modification.

I've had some time to test these out and they work great for solo bleeding. (I'm not a fan of pressure bleeding for a few reasons). You open them 1/4 turn, they stay sealed, but they open up around 100psi and reseal again below that. Other quick bleeders you risk pulling air in through the threads when you pull the pedal back, but these don't have that risk.

One downside is installed on the front outer caliper, they are VERY close to the wheel (the black wheel, unsure about the silver braids), can't even use a dust cap, though I'm going to print a TPU dust "plug" for them eventually. Oh and cost....

Bleeding tip: The master cylinders (at least mine) don't want to refill right away, you have to tap the pedal a bit before they start to refill. (initially I thought these bleders were being weird but I isolated that behavior away from them). Also set brake bias bar to the middle (which wont be 50%) so you get full stroke on both cylinders.

Yes, I know it sounds crazy (and probably is). 🤪

Being a lawyer that I am, I found a loophole in the Mexican regulations which would allow to obtain license plates for my Rush (or anybody's ) as a street legal car in Mexico. While I certainly would not contemplate using the Rush to run errands on a daily basis, it could eventually be useful to be able to drive it in short distances for refueling, transportation to racetracks, car meets and car shows. My main concern is the absence of reverse, which could make parking very complicated, but I would also be worried about underbody and body panel damage as well as suspension damage from bumps and potholes. What are your thoughts? Any other major concerns?...No, I would NOT let the valet parking drive my Rush....
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PS: This is not legal advise. He he.

You fill your tank, you put air in your tires, but do you check your shocks?

Your shocks need to be operating properly for the car to give its best performance in the turns.

We have people sending back shocks because their leaking oil.

Now a small amount of oil leakage is totally normal, there will always be a small amount of oil bypasses the seals each time the shock moves, just as it does on the piston in your engine. It will accumulate on the shaft and since its ultra-low viscosity it will drip off the end.

More than that is an issue, it can be that the compression and rebound adjusters were screwed out too far, that will cause a big leak.

However, we are seeing a number with blown seals. The number one cause, the N2 charge, has been lost. When that happens, bad things happen in the shock.

The nitrogen charge drives the nitrogen piston to keep the shock oil under pressure and to stop cavitation. It also compensates for the volume displacement when the shock shaft is pushed into the cylinder.

When the nitrogen charge is lost rather than compressing the oil when the shock is compressed, the lower section goes on vacuum causing cavitation and the shaft seals to be reversed over every bump. That damages them. Then you get a bigger leak, and the shock needs to be rebuilt.

Why does the nitrogen charge leak off. Nitrogen is a very small molecule, it will find the smallest of leaks anywhere, typically at the Shrader Valve or NPT fitting.

So how often should your shock pressures be set? At least once per day. The nitrogen charge will bleed off within a week of sitting in most cases to a level where it is too low to stop cavitation. We need a minimum of 200psi and fill to 300 psi in the shop.

Do I have to spend hundreds of dollars on a N2 bottle and charge system? NO!

We recommend N2 but using AIR rather than nothing is 100 times better. The downside of air, it will change pressure more with temperature. This is insignificant in the overall operation of the shock, the change in pressure causes less of a force change than the tolerance between different springs. The other negative of air is it contains moisture which can cause corrosion. This will be over a long period, the shock will need replacing before this is an issue.

95% of our drivers will not be able to feel any difference between a shock charged with nitrogen and one filled with air. However, 95% of drivers will feel the difference in cornering from a shock that is charged vs not.

So can I use a simple pump. Yes, here are links to the three items you need to be able to charge your shock using air.

300 psi shock pump $ 18.47

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092Z7Q1DV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shrader Valve $ 2.78

https://www.amazon.com/Control-Devices-Brass-Tank-Valve/dp/B0081TJO72/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=schrader+valve+1/8+npt&qid=1674080635&sr=8-13

No Loss Chuck $ 39.95, I really like these.

https://powertank.com/products/pt-shock-chuck

So a total of $ 61.20 or Less than a rebuild on 1 shock!

OR you can buy an N2 System from Power Tank too. $ 559.95

https://powertank.com/products/shock-boss-ori-edition-portable-n2-tuning-kit

we just took Delivery of our 1st two new cars.
the wife and I are already talking about placing another order for two more but before we do that we have to get lots of spare parts.

Here are some pics for my race ready Rush SR in a track training event in the Amozoc circuit in Puebla, Mexico.

We get asked a lot where to buy setup equipment. Marty at MK Technologies has been my go to for over 20 years. He is one of the best in his field.

Quick jacks, Short and High stands, camber toe tools, A-frame lifts he has it all.

RAW do manufacture our own car specific Toe Alignment Bars, Let Blair know if you need a set.

Other than that please check out Marty's stuff at https://www.mktechnologies.com Be careful though its a toy store all to its self!

Here is some of his stuff.

I am posting this here as I don't want to question the same question time after time in the FB group. Now I can just copy the post link.

There are actually three stages:

1. Stock Baffles, quite quiet, certainly not a race car, 92-93 db at 50ft.
2. Baffles removed end cap removed, then baffles re-inserted. More Civic R, 95-96 db at 50ft.
3. Baffles fully removed, more old F1 ish, 98-101 db at 50 ft.

For Rush SR Series, the race db plates are removed unless specified for the event.

The baffles are an insert that goes in the end of the exhaust tip. They are held in place by a single set screw from the bottom. On the inner end there is a cap that can be removed. That is stage 2 above.

The most extensive sound testing was done over multiple days and conditions by Steven Torry at RMMP, I credit him for this work, results are taken from his data. No he did not drive a Tesla on track. At least if he did he would likely deny it!

I highly recommend either wearing radio earbuds or ear protection. You will not likely hear much of the exhaust but the air intake is 3" behind your head!

Of note if you remove the baffles please keep them handy in your trailer, we do not sell them separately. There will be some tracks you will potentially visit where you will be black flagged off without them!

I get asked frequently what I recommend for a radio system.

It really comes down to personal preference and budget.

Racing Radios are the best known in the country. If you run big events IMSA /SRO they are there to help you! But they are definitely at the top end of the price structure.

This is a link to their long track digital package at $2199, that does not include a radio box. https://www.racingradios.com/collections/complete-systems/products/long-track-cp200d

If you are a bit more budget minded or just cheap like me! Then I have used these guys multiple times! This is a long track Digital system for $ 799 and includes the in car radio box! You don't need the PTT button but it gives you a cable and connector to splice into the one on the steering wheel.

I also recommend an external antenna, but remember they need to be mounted on a metal back plane not on the body work. The roll hoop cover works fine. I have also seen them mounted on the head containment.

http://www.raceradiosdirect.com/viewpart.asp?idpart=60010D

Sam Reed submitted a new resource:

Suzuki GSXS Service Manual 2019-2020 - GSXS1000 Service Manual

Useful for engine and transmission information for the Rush SR.

Click to expand...

Read more about this resource...

In discussions with our best-looking owner, I thought it would be interesting to have people post their dash configs. I've uploaded my MXS config, so you can simply import it (BEWARE, it will delete all your existing dash settings!) if you just want a good "getting started" config.

Here are some clickable photos:

Diagnostic




Focus



Warmup


Race1



Race2

Heavily Optioned Rush SR

RAW Pneumatic Paddle Shift System / No Lift Shift with Blip Assist
Carbon Fiber Dash
Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel
Carbon Fiber Rear Wing
AIM MXS 1.2 Dash Logger
SFI Fire System with Mechanical Pull and 3 Nozzles




Please contact Kurt at GT International in Frenchtown, New Jersey
www.gtinternationalcars.com
908 303-6299

To get the car level in the front took a large difference in shock adjustment. This is with the same spring preload on either side. The only thing I know that would cause this is a lot more weight on that corner (not the case) or a spring rate difference (unlikely). Nitrogen pressure? (how much can that impact ride height?)

The left spring (right side of picture) compressed length is a little over 1/4 shorter than the other side and that's roughly equal to the difference in adjustment that was needed.

Going to the store to get distilled water to refill my cooling system. Already have water wetter. What is system capacity
Thanks.

The SR's Nankang tires fit right inside the 22" truck tires in the garage!

I posted a question on the Aim Facebook Group about using the SmartyCam Dual to stream real time video and data back to the 'Pit Crew' and got quite a response. Looks like it is doable but quite expensive. See the link below if you have a interest.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/140815893249677/permalink/1132650874066169/

Hello everyone,

I am a prospective buyer looking at the Radicals and the Rush. The Rush seems very promising, so I decided to collect more information on it. These are my most pertinent questions.

How does the Rush compare to the Radical SR1 and SR3?

What are the running and maintenance costs associated with the vehicle?

How easy is it to transport the car?

Out of curiosity, is the AiM SW4 steering wheel (or something of that nature) viable instead of the standard dash?

Thank you.

Looking to pull all the known service interval's

I will be making an OEM style run time/(inspection , replacement, cleaning) chart specific to the SR as I get info.
So far I have
engine oil run time at 8hr
Chain lube .5hr
Inspect diff oil at __hr
Throttle body sync__hr
Spark plugs __hr
Inspect pads__hr
Etc

Looking for more info as the Suzuki one will not be accurate.

Michael Schneider submitted a new resource:

Rebuilding and cleaning SR axle's

Quick tutorial on rebuilding the SR axle.

Click to expand...

Read more about this resource...

Sam Reed submitted a new resource:

Getting Started with your Rush SR - Getting Started with your Rush SR

This document is about getting familiar with your new Rush SR! It covers the following topics:

• Seat Mounting
• Bodywork Removal
• Pedalbox Placement
• Dash Panel (switches, knobs, paddle-shift, and harnesses)
• Driving
• Engine Break-in

Click to expand...

Read more about this resource...

We lost a good one, this man did so much for our sport, turned millions into followers and ignited passion!

We are gutted, our thoughts and prayers go out to his family, friends and the many he touched!

Wanted to post a typical customer build with all the latest, straight off the line.

Sam Reed submitted a new resource:

Rush SR Baseline Setup - Rush SR Baseline Tunables

Baseline Setup doc. This includes tires, ride height, shock psi, toe, camber, and brake bias.

Click to expand...

Read more about this resource...

We had a very busy year at Turn 17 Garage, we took delivery of 14 Cars this year, we covered thousands of miles between race tracks, we picked up cars in both Houston and Las Vegas., and we put a ton of laps and time on the RUSH SR! Attached is a summary of the RUSH SR laps and some other fun data at Rocky Mountain Motorsports. We are looking forward to 2023, we have sold another 12 cars, our permanent building will be built, and we will are excited for a lot more laps and smiles from our customers.

32mm. You will need to also use an impact gun to remove the front sprocket.