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For sale: Rush SR w/ 23h chassis 0h engine; Wheel/tire set x2; Dual smarty cam. Central Florida.

J
Selling my SR, simply because I haven't had time to use it nor will I for probably another year and am in the middle of a complicated move to a new state (goodbye Sebring 😭).

Also available for sale separately:
New wheel/tire set $1500
Used wheel tire set $1000
Dual smarty cam, opened and mounted but unused. $2400


Rush SR
Pretend that I am asking $42k and offer me $40k.
Car is located near Daytona Florida.

This is chassis #68, it has a brand new engine in it after an early failure of the original. The new engine is the throttle by wire variant.
Will come with detailed maintenance log.

It's optioned to ~$48k new: (plus additional upgrades)
Base car
spec pack
5lb fire system
LMP wheel
Dual tank
Dual hydramat
Aim MXS

Additional upgrades:
Harness upgraded to a Schroth formula 2x2
Extended wheel studs
Ceramic coated headers/exhaust
Stahlbus brake speed bleeders
Upgraded side view mirrors (originals included)
A cooling system (compcooler backpack)
Chain grease deflector
A bit of spares (I will try to get around to inventorying)

Spares:

Starter
Rear upright
Rod ends
A arm spherical
Camber shims
A arm precision shims
Wheel studs (extended matching the car)
Wheel nuts
Some wire connectors (for the DRL/lights)
Clutch cable
Chain
An entire hardware store of bolts and nuts
Front sprocket
diff oil
Engine oil

Tools:
Shock length setting tool
Shock wrenches
Shock vice clamp
Shock fill chuck
Rolling chassis stands
Dolly for front clip
BG racing quick jack 12" lift
BG racing quick jack 8" lift
Chain breaker
Diff drain hose with barb fitting
Oil drain hose for Fumoto oil drain valve
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Generation Differences

Sam Reed
I typically resist calling it a “generation” as the changes are smaller than that and do not affect performance.

The main difference is the electronics. The newer motors are drive-by-wire (DBW) and communicate via CANBus instead of KLine and, on the bike, had some nice convenience features and expanded traction control. All of that is turned off for the car. Hp and torque are the same. Reviews of the GSX-S1000 GT expand on this.

The main exception is the auto-blip and throttle cut, which was managed by the RAW GCU and is now managed by the Suzuki ECU on the DBW motors. As a result, shifting at lower RPM (ie in the paddock) is a little smoother and more civilized. It makes little difference on the track.

Additionally, the throw on the DBW throttle pedal is slightly shorter. The throw on the cable-driven car can also be adjusted via a smaller pulley.

As the Rush SR is a spec series, there are not significant power or weight differences between the cars, and the update to the motor’s electronics does not have a meaningful impact on performance. Other items in the car, outside of those needed to support the DBW pedal and shifting, were not changed at the time of the motor change.
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Generation Differences

G
Looking for advice in the differences from the 1st gen cars to the current model.
What are upgrades to the 1st gen cars are a "should do" and what upgrades are a "nice addition" but not a "must do"?
Are there any specific problem areas with the early models I should be looking for?
I'm thinking about buying a used car for my first Rush SR to learn with rather than a brand new one.
Any advice offered will be appreciated!
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Quickjacks on a Rush?

Bill Wright
DBILLS said:
Yes I use my quick jacks on the Rush SR cars but with a little twist. Instead of one on the right and one on the left, I jack up the front and place both front wheels in the trays of a single quick jack and do the same to the rear. One for the front and one for the rear. It lifts the car via the wheels and makes it really easy to change the oil.
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I can't envision what you're doing there? Picture?
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Hello from a lurker

Jcarr906
I use a slightlily modified Futura 10’ single axle motorcycle trailer. It’s not enclosed, but it fits easily in a standard garage bay, can be moved by hand, and at about 2100 car/trailer total weight, it tows like a dream. I load backward since there’s no front tow ring and due to winch location near hitch, the cable presses on the front body work if I try to winch with the roll bar & axle strap approach. Car is so light it doesn’t put much weight on tongue. I also use RaceRamp extenders to help with clearance for the splitter. I may remove the tire rack as I really don’t need an extra set of tries for the type of track use I do these days. My tow vehicle is a Jag F-Pace SVR — overkill, but if the Rush has an issue I can always take the Jag out on the track!

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Click to expand...

Quickjacks on a Rush?

D
Yes I use my quick jacks on the Rush SR cars but with a little twist. Instead of one on the right and one on the left, I jack up the front and place both front wheels in the trays of a single quick jack and do the same to the rear. One for the front and one for the rear. It lifts the car via the wheels and makes it really easy to change the oil.
Click to expand...
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