As title.

Just a word of caution for those people that may have disassembled their body panels to wrap. Apparently we weren't too careful on the reassembly, and have noticed that the cooling ducts have rubbed on the fuel tank. I have the "original" body panels, not the newer SMC panel versions, so not sure if that is partly the reason. But it is worthwhile to keep an eye on it.

Which one is compression and which one is rebound?

How many positions total left / right?

Which way is increasing rebound?

Which way is increasing compression?

What are you guys doing for a front tow hook. I know that one can pull the car from the roll cage but it seems like a traditional front tow hook would be a better solution. I’m curious how tech is going to feel about it when I try and get my logbook. Hopefully they don’t care it’s not on the car. Anyway. What if anything is anyone doing?

Question for a maybe buyer. Ive seen the operating costs been stated at around 80 dollars per hour. This seems extraordinarily low. How long are brake pads lasting? Tires? Rotors? This is a questions as an HPDE driver not a racer. Usually do 5-30 min sessions per day and home track is Sebring.
any insight you can give me would be fantastic!
is there somewhere i can look at the price of the rotors and pads also?
thank you so much

now that the seat is on sliders and needing seat back support with 7.5 inches of seat adjustment at ten different locking positions the common seat back supports with the sliding round bars will not work.
so I started drawing some of my thoughts on how I could make one that will fit in the 1.5" of space from the harness bar to the seat back and quickly extend out to about 7.5" with the seat slid all the way forward.
this is who I have so far.

What are the wheel offset and bolt circle diameter specs?

I am looking for the wrap file that would be needed for a wrap company to print the graphics on. I know there is an ai file posted here but that appears to be just a layout so that a design could be created. There must be something else that a wrap shop needs with sizes, shapes contours etc so printed graphics come out straight over the contours. If there are owners that have had their cars wrapped, whomever did those wraps would have such a file I presume. We are getting ready to wrap potentially 8 cars out here in California. Thanks in advance.

Rotor temps for anyone who wants the info, around 360c. Weirdly my back left had the highest temp. I also forgot to paint the pads, will do that next weekend and add that.

I had a few times where the car got stuck in neutral during downshifts. I recall someone mentioning the throttle and/or the shift cylinder may need to be adjusted. Can someone go over how to adjust these?

There's a plastic cap in the end of each side of the axle within the CV joint. Two of mine got eaten by the joints (one outboard that had gotten loose and one inboard that was always tight). Best guess is to prevent metal on metal contact against the splines when not fully assembled to the bearing or diff, but nothing when fully assembled? (don't want to put them back or need new ones if necessary)

Any recommendations on a chain breaker / rivet tool?

We get asked a LOT for what we recommend for spares. Frankly that is different for each of us, if you are running exclusively where there is a parts dealer at track with you, whether you are traveling half way across the country to events or simply just your budget constraints. All of these will affect your choices.

We have compiled these two basic lists of things to carry that may save your day and prevent a track day from being cut short. The extended list includes everything in the basic list plus basic tuning needs, an extra set of shocks, an extra set of wheels, two sets of tires, a half shaft, and alignment bars (which some of you may already have).

A full list of parts can be found in resources.

NOTE: we will have our new RUSH starter motors by the end of February that we have had made to our specs. We will be able to provide these at 1/2 the cost of the OEM Suzuki / Denso units!

This weekend was amazing! Ended up with an overall 1st and 2nd after starting from the back! NASA TX ran an amazing event and we cant wait for the next one at MSR Creson. Really looking forward to having 20+ SR's on track for the Battle of the South, let's dominate the weekend!
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after putting our cars seats on sliders and with having to lay the seat back a little more for taller drivers to pass the broomstick test it puts my knees into the steering wheel. a 3" steering wheel hub extension will fix the problem I can make one like I did for one of our other cars or we could buy one.
the problem for us is I do not want to keep unbolting it every time a shorter person needs to drive the car.
the fix to be able to swap back and forth between different extension lengths quickly is to get another quick release with the splined shaft.
I can cut the splined shaft and weld it to the round metal plates I made up to any length that is needed.
it may look funny with two quick releases on the same steering shaft but it will let us swap them out in seconds.

posted on FB but figured I’d give some more insight in here.

Owned a forest river FSX 178 BHSKX.. I know.. a mouthful. Great little camper. LOVE every bit if it…. Only issue, can’t camp at race weekends without making my wife tow the other trailer.

Was able to trade both of my trailers in for the perfect solution.. the same exact trailer plus a 12 ft garage.. now for what you should know… I spent days researching different options and there’s an abundance of trailers that would be perfect for the SR at a wide range of prices. If you’re considering this toy hauler route, I highly consider a date with your computer for a few nights to research.

There’s massive rigs that would be most ideal, big garage, lots of storage, etc.
There’s others that have the garage space in the living room.. which is ideal if you’re looking to use the space when the car’s at the track.

Ladies and Gents,

2023 Will see some fantastic racing all across North America! Both Canada and Mexico are lining up tremendous programs and we will see the RUSH SR racing in both the Florida and Texas NASA regions with a full championships.

The Battle Of The South, however, looks to be the premier USA series for the RUSH SR during 2023. With three spectacular venues, Barber, NOLA & Ozarks, we are expecting the largest gathering of RUSH SR's to date. This will be a 3 weekend mini series with nine races counting toward the championship and toward the Grand Purse of over $10,000!

We have already had several drivers commit to these events from afar, and we know with certainty these will sell out! We encourage you to register NOW if you plan to attend these events! Registration for Barber, NOLA and the Ozarks is now open, they will sell out very quickly. Once registered please send a message to us so that we can help you with any additional needs. If you are DE please register for your appropriate DE group. If you have a race licence please register for ST2 with your SR.

More information and links to the event page for each event can be found at https://rushautoworks.com/2023-rush-battle-of-the-south/

For sale: Custom built Rush SR Trailer. All the best of the best designed to fit around the RUSH SR.

2019 Mission 26’ Car Hauler

All Aluminum, 20’ Box, 6' Extended Tongue, Torsion 5200lb. Spread Axles, Side door and driver exit door (has towed a late model Camaro inside too), Built in Cabinets, 200-W Solar System, 2000 Watt DC/AC Inverter, 5000lb. Winch, Lithium Batteries, Cargo Box, Rubber Floor, Bob Tail, Exterior Load Lights, 30gl. Fuel Station, Extended Load Ramps, TV/DVD Player, Stereo, Tire Rack, Floor Jack, Fluid Cabinets, Rear load Jacks, Two Tone Smooth Siding Red/White, Full Finished Interior, LED Lighting, Electric Toque Jack, Overhead Rack for Mattress (mattress included), Bed Frame, Fuel Door, One Piece Aluminum Roof. Upgraded Trailer connections.

Super light. Tow with an SUV.
Designed to fit in a garage if you have the length.

Perfect Track day hauler for our cars.

Located in Fresno California

Call Jeff at Fresno Powersports
559.760.3138

$30,000

I will say I'm not a big fan of seat sliders in a track / race car. Howeverm because we are renting our cars it's pretty much a must to save hours of seat adjustments.

because of the cross bar on the chassis that's right in front of the seat, sliders can not just be bolted to the stock Rush seat mounts. it will hit the cross bar.
I rated the front seat mount I made to the height of the stock cross bar so the sliders can pass over it.
for the rear mount I made it lower than the rush factory seat mounts.
originally I tried to use the seat slider in the width it came in but after I made the mounts and bolted the seat in I realized that if I cut the slider release lever and moved the two sliders apart to 1 3/8" I could drop the seat lower. I also had to cut the bottom inside of the seat mounts that bolts to the sides of the seats this let me drop the seat even more.
with the layback of the seat at 20 degrees I had with my helmet on 3 1/4 clearance to the top of the roll hoop. I laid the seat back to 23 degrees and got 4 3/16' clearance to the top of the roll hoop.
at the 23 degrees layback it puts my knees into the steering wheel to fix that I will use a 3" steering wheel hub spacer. this will move the wheel closer to me to a more comfortable position.
the steering wheel spacer may be a problem for shorter drivers with the seat slid all the way forward.
we may need to buy another steering wheel with paddles to do a quick driver change over?

the drawing is with the seat slider set at its middle position .
because the seat sliders are at an angle when the seat slides back it drops it's height some just as when you slide the seat forward it rises the seats height some.


I'm just a little over 6'2" so we should be able to fit some drivers up to 6'3".

the next two cars we will order we will order them with taller roll hoops.





sorry about my writing I know it sucks but that's why I build and restore cars and not write books!

Cockpit and/or pedal box ventilation? How hot are we talking? Asking for a friend...

having a few other chain drive cars I hate the chain lube flying all over the place.
I took a few minutes to make a template then it took about 20 minutes to cut out and mount each guard.
used 4 10-24 nut serts and SS button head bolts.
I hope it keeps things a little cleaner.

See video:

If you are highly reclined and have your belts adjusted properly (lap belt properly positioned lower than you might think), they (cam buckle/crotch bracket) should be digging into your crotch (as you are more pretzeled). The solution to this is a formula belt which eliminates the crotch belt bracket and routes the crotch belts off to the sides. The crotch belt comes around your thigh and is pulled away from your crotch. This is always more comfortable, but especially so in reclined positions. For this to work properly the belt has to come from underneath you so you must add two holes to the seat. Routing a regular 6 point this way will also increase comfort in a similar fashion but less effectively.

For tall people, you are likely going to be sitting as far back and as low as possible (max rollbar clearance). If you take this to the extreme, the shoulder mount points will be too close for a standard clip in bracket and 3 bar slide. A bolt in bracket with Schroths LV4 slide (pictured) has the shortest mounting distance you can get (except for a sewn in bracket). This combo also lets you sit about an inch lower before your shoulder belts reach horizontal than eye loops.

If anyone is looking for longer studs, below are some inexpensive ones that fit with light modification. (you can also buy ARP for 4x the cost).

You need to grind down one side of the head slightly to fit because it's a bigger diameter than the original. They are also a little long (2" fully threaded or 2.5" with bullnose are the "right" length, these are 2.75 bull nose).

The jobs easy, you can hammer out the old ones (right way is to press but not really needed, hammer it after removing the bearing while it's in your hand so you're only shocking the stud). You do have to remove the wheels bearings though, and on the rear that means breaking the axle nut loose. You just need a bearing tool to pull the new ones in.


There are also some that already have a notch in them that may fit without modification.

I've had some time to test these out and they work great for solo bleeding. (I'm not a fan of pressure bleeding for a few reasons). You open them 1/4 turn, they stay sealed, but they open up around 100psi and reseal again below that. Other quick bleeders you risk pulling air in through the threads when you pull the pedal back, but these don't have that risk.

One downside is installed on the front outer caliper, they are VERY close to the wheel (the black wheel, unsure about the silver braids), can't even use a dust cap, though I'm going to print a TPU dust "plug" for them eventually. Oh and cost....

Bleeding tip: The master cylinders (at least mine) don't want to refill right away, you have to tap the pedal a bit before they start to refill. (initially I thought these bleders were being weird but I isolated that behavior away from them). Also set brake bias bar to the middle (which wont be 50%) so you get full stroke on both cylinders.