I’m preparing my trailer to work with the Rush SR while I wait on my build. I’ve found length and helpful pictures with it strapped down, but what’s the wheelbase?
Wheelbase
- Thread starter JChapman
- Start date
Official - Rush SR E-Track Diagram
Diagram for safely mounting Rush SR on E-Track which you might have in your trailer.
rush.sr
I'd also like to know the inside width between the inner edges of the tires. I'm looking for trailers, and some of them have gaps up the middle (for using as an impromptu work lift, and to save weight) and I want to make sure the SR isn't too narrow for what I'm looking at.
It's aprox. 75 inches, I assumed you actually wanted track width from the context.
Strongly recommend just putting e-track full length and not trying to put just "enough" in. Nothing worse then running out of length trying to balance the trailer out, You'll definitely use what you don't use for the car.
Inside to inside 38" R 42" F
I agree with John that putting Etrack the entire length is a good idea. I didn't do it and it has caused me to compromise loading the car and other items on several occasions. I will probably end up fitting full length in the near future.
I appreciate the full length e-track recommendation. I have a short deck to work with so trying to figure out if over-the-wheel straps with three e-track mounting points are going to work, including enough room to secure and work the ratchets, and which direction to load the car.
Ah, I see your concern. I had a car/trailer combo where I couldn't operate the front ratchets but I could use the rears to pull them tight, that wouldn't work with strap over setup.
I'm loading up later today, do you need any measurements of the strap distances or are the pictures you found good?
the ultimate is to set the E-tracks under what is the wheel track of the car and use web straps over the tires. this setup just wouldn't work for us as we have other race cars with many different wheel track.
you could also triangulate the straps like in the drawing to hold the car from shifting side to side. I found for us this is not necessary because the weight of our trailer doesn't bounce when hitting bumps so the cars do not shift side to side.
we have not hauled the rush cars in our single car trailer but when I would haul our other 1000LB sports racer in it I would need to triangulate the straps to stop the car from shifting side to side. this is because the car has no weight to keep it planted on the trail that can haul much more weight than the light weight car. so you hit a big bump and the car hops up in the air and shifts.
you could also triangulate the straps like in the drawing to hold the car from shifting side to side. I found for us this is not necessary because the weight of our trailer doesn't bounce when hitting bumps so the cars do not shift side to side.
we have not hauled the rush cars in our single car trailer but when I would haul our other 1000LB sports racer in it I would need to triangulate the straps to stop the car from shifting side to side. this is because the car has no weight to keep it planted on the trail that can haul much more weight than the light weight car. so you hit a big bump and the car hops up in the air and shifts.
Nice thing about the over-the-wheel is that you don't have to worry about the car moving side-to-side.
Make sure that if you get an over-the-wheel you get a system that does not have "rings" that retain the straps to the e-clips. This causes the straps to twist and makes it more difficult to get a good strapdown. If that makes sense.
Make sure that if you get an over-the-wheel you get a system that does not have "rings" that retain the straps to the e-clips. This causes the straps to twist and makes it more difficult to get a good strapdown. If that makes sense.
This is the type of etrack/etrack clips I would recommend. Just don't get the "ring" track clip type.
This system also has a short distance from the etrack clip to the ratchet. That reduces how much space it takes on the floor.
This system also has a short distance from the etrack clip to the ratchet. That reduces how much space it takes on the floor.
I’m guessing at distance from front wheel ground contact to front edge of air splitter, if you can provide that I should have everything I need to determine strap placement.
The pictures I’ve seen, including those above, have me mostly convinced the car is going on backwards. Probably easiest anyway as I can use the winch with the rear tow hook.
You can winch by the roll bar easily for front load, especially if you have dyneema. The rear you can come as close to the mount point as your ratchet unlock position pretty much, so long as you are positioned under the diffuser.
Here's an album, what you need should be in here if not LMK. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4qajmhy7CGuW3Upq7
Here's an album, what you need should be in here if not LMK. https://photos.app.goo.gl/4qajmhy7CGuW3Upq7
Those pictures and measurements are fantastic! I’ve laid everything out and looks like I’ll have at least four inches past the strap anchor on each end, without going onto the dovetail.
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