Should I buy

[Jeremiahlee34]

Looking for some advice here before I place a deposit.

Thinking of selling my current fun car and getting a Rush.

Wondering how hard it is to work on a car like this?

My limited mechanical experience includes:
Replacing rotors, calipers, pads.
Installing intakes, headers, catbacks.
Oil change.

That’s about it and I’m wondering if I would be biting off more then I can chew getting a real race car like this in terms of maintenance.


Ultimately I would track the car 2-3 days a year- what kind of maintenance could I expect with this?

 

[John H]

Race cars are usually easier to work on than production street cars, most things are more easily accessible and the fastening method is simpler. i.e. It takes me about 2 minutes to take a shock out and it's a brain dead procedure.

But, expect more things to break and need to be replaced more often and more time just checking everything over than when you race a street car.

Ultimately I would track the car 2-3 days a year- what kind of maintenance could I expect with this?

RUSH SR Service Intervals

We have a vary varied clientèle for the SR, some have extensive race car knowledge and other are only familiar with their road cars. We have needed a maintenance schedule for a long time. Attached you will find our initial recommendations. The SR...

rush.sr

 

[Sam Reed]

It's a lot easier to work on this than any street car. You can get the bodywork off in a few minutes, even by yourself, and this gives very easy access to all components. All the components are light and inexpensive, because the weight of the car is very low and thus the stresses are relatively low. So you're not going to need complex, over-engineered solutions to handle the weight and power. Storing, transporting, and changing wheels and tires is extremely easy because they're small. Nothing's going to break your back or your wallet.

Changing oil on the motor & diff is easy. Even flushing or redoing the brake system is very easy (done it myself), as is the chain maintenance, clutch/throttle cable maintenance, alignment, and so on.

 

[Jeremiahlee34]

Thank you both for the replies!
This is extremely helpful.

I only do track days 2-3 days a year.
Currently in a ‘09 Nissan GTR, which is amazing but the consumable cost of tracking it is too much.
It has 80k miles and anything and everything on the car is 10x the cost of most cars.
It’s a garage queen that I really only drive a few times a year to track.

So that’s my rationale for selling into a dedicated track car like the Rush SR.

Radicals are too expensive and I don’t like the look.
Catterhams are too tail happy and flip happy lol also don’t like the look.

Rush seems to be the best of all worlds for price, looks, performance, and maintenance.


1 question:
Has anyone crashed a Rush?
I’d love to see how it holds up

 

[Sam Reed]

1 question:
Has anyone crashed a Rush?
I’d love to see how it holds up

A few users have had some on-track incidents, @Andor comes to mind. Generally, the costs are quite minimal, because there are so many body panels (which means each one is inexpensive to buy/ship/replace), and the uprights, wheel hubs, springs, etc., are also reasonably-priced.

We estimate it is 3-5x cheaper to repair than a Radical for the same typical repair parts list. The biggest delta in costs is the body panels, but a RUSH shock also costs nearly 4x less ($446 vs $1755), and uprights are 4-8x cheaper depending on front or back.

See also this spare parts list: https://rush.sr/resources/raw-spare-parts-price-list.24/

 

[Jeremiahlee34]

A few users have had some on-track incidents, @Andor comes to mind. Generally, the costs are quite minimal, because there are so many body panels (which means each one is inexpensive to buy/ship/replace), and the uprights, wheel hubs, springs, etc., are also reasonably-priced.

We estimate it is 3-5x cheaper to repair than a Radical for the same typical repair parts list. The biggest delta in costs is the body panels, but a RUSH shock also costs nearly 4x less ($446 vs $1755), and uprights are 4-8x cheaper depending on front or back.

See also this spare parts list: https://rush.sr/resources/raw-spare-parts-price-list.24/

Okay great to know, thank you!

@Andor if you’re willing to share your experience here, I love to know how it went and cost of repair.
Otherwise I can totally DM you about it

 

[bhargrave]

I bought mine to do 3 to 5 days per MONTH! Couldn't afford to track anything else that often.

 

[DrPyro2k]

@Jeremiahlee34 - I think the guys hit up the major points...
1) It is much easier to work on things, but there are more things to keep an eye on.
2) Brake Pads & Rotors are simple to replace and last a VERY long time compared to most cars. I have 20 hours on the rotors, and 10 on the pads and there is very little wear. Lightweight has it's advantages!
3) Cost to repair (compared to most street cars) is much less if you get in a minor accident. However, the car is lower compared to a street car, so you can damage the front lip and perhaps a body panel, which are cheap to replace if you do too much offroad adventures. The biggest issues/costs that most owners have had are driver mistakes or maintainance mistakes (not checking things). They kill a starter if they don't get the clutch in quick enough when they spin. Things like this...

Now, @bhargrave more or less noted this... But I'll come right out and say it... If you are ONLY driving a few times a year, don't bother getting the car. Most of us drive several times a month, race the car, or want increased safety/performance of a fully prepared race car. These cars are mighty fast, and do so for costs much much below their comparable. But it needs to be driven... The more often the better!

 

[Jeremiahlee34]

I bought mine to do 3 to 5 days per MONTH! Couldn't afford to track anything else that often.

That’s awesome, I wish I could go out that often!

 

[Jeremiahlee34]

@Jeremiahlee34 - I think the guys hit up the major points...
1) It is much easier to work on things, but there are more things to keep an eye on.
2) Brake Pads & Rotors are simple to replace and last a VERY long time compared to most cars. I have 20 hours on the rotors, and 10 on the pads and there is very little wear. Lightweight has it's advantages!
3) Cost to repair (compared to most street cars) is much less if you get in a minor accident. However, the car is lower compared to a street car, so you can damage the front lip and perhaps a body panel, which are cheap to replace if you do too much offroad adventures. The biggest issues/costs that most owners have had are driver mistakes or maintainance mistakes (not checking things). They kill a starter if they don't get the clutch in quick enough when they spin. Things like this...

Now, @bhargrave more or less noted this... But I'll come right out and say it... If you are ONLY driving a few times a year, don't bother getting the car. Most of us drive several times a month, race the car, or want increased safety/performance of a fully prepared race car. These cars are mighty fast, and do so for costs much much below their comparable. But it needs to be driven... The more often the better!

That’s insightful about the costs!
I appreciate the detailed response.
The cost of repair vs. a street car is ultimately why I am looking at Rush to replace my GTR.

I hear you about the car needing to be driven. That’s something I’m debating myself.
Ideally I’d track it 8-10 days a year.
Currently I’m only out there occasionally but that’s more so because I don’t want to put the wear an tear on my current car.
We will see.


is there any downside to letting the car sit a few months without being driven that I might not be aware of?

From reading here, I understand the shocks will need pressurized. Possibly lube the CV/chain before tracking?

 

[DrPyro2k]

So shocks need to be checked at least once a day... I didn't do that when I first got the car and had to do a complete rebuild. Live and learn... My track isn't the smoothest, so I'll check BEFORE every day running (I usually get a most 2 hours every day I go down). Places like Sebring, I'd likely check every hour of running...

I lube the chain every session (typically 30 - 45 minutes), but some do it every other session. And the Chain is replaced every 20 hours.

I will do a quick inspection of all of the major bolts every day and usually once in the middle of the day. Everything is torqued and marked at the factory (and if I redo something) so it is a quick visual inspection.

Brakes... to be honest I have gotten lazy and don't check that often. I run PFC endurance pads (not stock pads), and I have a lot of experience with them in a car weighing 2x and know how long they last.

No real downside at letting the car sit... just not a very effective use of $ IMHO. We have lots of race cars that sit way to much in our garage. I understand life gets in the way.... As one of my garage mates said... If I don't come at least once to twice a month, then my car and membership fee is wasted.

 

[Jeremiahlee34]

So shocks need to be checked at least once a day... I didn't do that when I first got the car and had to do a complete rebuild. Live and learn... My track isn't the smoothest, so I'll check BEFORE every day running (I usually get a most 2 hours every day I go down). Places like Sebring, I'd likely check every hour of running...

I lube the chain every session (typically 30 - 45 minutes), but some do it every other session. And the Chain is replaced every 20 hours.

I will do a quick inspection of all of the major bolts every day and usually once in the middle of the day. Everything is torqued and marked at the factory (and if I redo something) so it is a quick visual inspection.

Brakes... to be honest I have gotten lazy and don't check that often. I run PFC endurance pads (not stock pads), and I have a lot of experience with them in a car weighing 2x and know how long they last.

No real downside at letting the car sit... just not a very effective use of $ IMHO. We have lots of race cars that sit way to much in our garage. I understand life gets in the way.... As one of my garage mates said... If I don't come at least once to twice a month, then my car and membership fee is wasted.

Okay awesome.
This is exactly the kind of no nonsense outline of maintenance I was looking to understand.
I think that would all be manageable.

How long does it take of the car just sitting in a garage for the shocks to lose enough pressure to cause damage to the shock?
Or is it only damaging if you don’t pressurize them before driving?

 

[DrPyro2k]

My understanding is that you can damage them if the pressure gets too low and put a load on the shock. I would define "a load" as driving or hauling in most trailers, but I don't think just sitting there will cause major issue. However, if you are driving only a couple of times a year, I'd keep the car in your home garage. Then you can check pressures once a month (or something like that). I have to run the AC on my Alfa once a month or the seals dry up and leak.... Just something we have to do for only periodic driven cars...

 

[Jeremiahlee34]

Okay that makes allot of sense. Thank you for the help!

 

[Jeremiahlee34]

I have placed my order with Rush! Thanks for the help @DrPyro2k @Sam Reed @John H

 

[John H]

We get a commission right @Cale Blevins

 

[bhargrave]

I have placed my order with Rush! Thanks for the help @DrPyro2k @Sam Reed @John H

Awesome! Best purchase I've ever made. Hope you feel the same once you get yours.

 

[Jeremiahlee34]

Awesome! Best purchase I've ever made. Hope you feel the same once you get yours.

That's great to hear! Excited to take delivery

 

[John H]

My understanding is that you can damage them if the pressure gets too low and put a load on the shock.

@Jeremiahlee34 you asked in another thread about cavitation, and it's basically this. Cavitation occurs proportional with piston velocity, if your cars just sitting there you should be fine. Even if you get a little from jacking it up (which you will if it's totally depressurized) seal damage should take significantly more velocity, like pyro is saying, actually driving or towing the car.

 

[Jeremiahlee34]

@Jeremiahlee34 you asked in another thread about cavitation, and it's basically this. Cavitation occurs proportional with piston velocity, if your cars just sitting there you should be fine. Even if you get a little from jacking it up (which you will if it's totally depressurized) seal damage should take significantly more velocity, like pyro is saying, actually driving or towing the car.

Okay great to know. Appreciate the response on this.
I hopefully won’t ever let it get that low but good to know if it’s just sitting it’s not a total loss if it does get that low.