I will say I'm not a big fan of seat sliders in a track / race car. Howeverm because we are renting our cars it's pretty much a must to save hours of seat adjustments.
because of the cross bar on the chassis that's right in front of the seat, sliders can not just be bolted to the stock Rush seat mounts. it will hit the cross bar.
I rated the front seat mount I made to the height of the stock cross bar so the sliders can pass over it.
for the rear mount I made it lower than the rush factory seat mounts.
originally I tried to use the seat slider in the width it came in but after I made the mounts and bolted the seat in I realized that if I cut the slider release lever and moved the two sliders apart to 1 3/8" I could drop the seat lower. I also had to cut the bottom inside of the seat mounts that bolts to the sides of the seats this let me drop the seat even more.
with the layback of the seat at 20 degrees I had with my helmet on 3 1/4 clearance to the top of the roll hoop. I laid the seat back to 23 degrees and got 4 3/16' clearance to the top of the roll hoop.
at the 23 degrees layback it puts my knees into the steering wheel to fix that I will use a 3" steering wheel hub spacer. this will move the wheel closer to me to a more comfortable position.
the steering wheel spacer may be a problem for shorter drivers with the seat slid all the way forward.
we may need to buy another steering wheel with paddles to do a quick driver change over?
the drawing is with the seat slider set at its middle position .
because the seat sliders are at an angle when the seat slides back it drops it's height some just as when you slide the seat forward it rises the seats height some.
I'm just a little over 6'2" so we should be able to fit some drivers up to 6'3".
the next two cars we will order we will order them with taller roll hoops.
sorry about my writing I know it sucks but that's why I build and restore cars and not write books!
because of the cross bar on the chassis that's right in front of the seat, sliders can not just be bolted to the stock Rush seat mounts. it will hit the cross bar.
I rated the front seat mount I made to the height of the stock cross bar so the sliders can pass over it.
for the rear mount I made it lower than the rush factory seat mounts.
originally I tried to use the seat slider in the width it came in but after I made the mounts and bolted the seat in I realized that if I cut the slider release lever and moved the two sliders apart to 1 3/8" I could drop the seat lower. I also had to cut the bottom inside of the seat mounts that bolts to the sides of the seats this let me drop the seat even more.
with the layback of the seat at 20 degrees I had with my helmet on 3 1/4 clearance to the top of the roll hoop. I laid the seat back to 23 degrees and got 4 3/16' clearance to the top of the roll hoop.
at the 23 degrees layback it puts my knees into the steering wheel to fix that I will use a 3" steering wheel hub spacer. this will move the wheel closer to me to a more comfortable position.
the steering wheel spacer may be a problem for shorter drivers with the seat slid all the way forward.
we may need to buy another steering wheel with paddles to do a quick driver change over?
the drawing is with the seat slider set at its middle position .
because the seat sliders are at an angle when the seat slides back it drops it's height some just as when you slide the seat forward it rises the seats height some.
I'm just a little over 6'2" so we should be able to fit some drivers up to 6'3".
the next two cars we will order we will order them with taller roll hoops.
sorry about my writing I know it sucks but that's why I build and restore cars and not write books!
