Removing Pedal Box / Detail

[Bill Wright]

Hello all,

I'm removing my pedal box to have it repaired. I've got most of it done, but have a few questions.

This is a pic of the clutch cable "capture" in the clutch peddle, looking from the bottom of the pedal box. To remove the cable from the clutch pedal do I just remove the bolt/nut (yellow arrows)? It appears the red arrows are pointing to a "pinch" net that captures the cable. I don't think I need to release the cable?

This is the brake bias adjuster nut. I've removed the two "inboard" pinch bolts (yellow arrows). I would have thought that would allow the nut to rotate off the bias threaded bar, but it doesn't want to move. I want to make sure that is all I need to remove before I apply more pressure. I assume the other pinch bolts (red arrows) are only there to capture the adjuster cable in the nut?

I have removed the mounting bolts/nuts from the master cylinders. I have removed the threaded rods from the brake bias bar. I am attempting to pull the master cylinders out of the pedal box, but the rubber covers (yellow arrows) don't want to come off. I just want to make sure they are supposed to come off before I apply more pressure.
I think I can then just slide the master cylinders and the threaded bar (red arrow) out of the pedal box. However, I may not have enough play on the fluid feed lines and might have to remove the threaded bolts (red arrow). I assume they can just be removed from the front of the master cylinder piston?

Any help/advice appreciated.

 

[John H]

The cables have to come out or they will keep the box tethered to the car. It's easiest IMO to remove them from the engine side and pull them through as that's the easiest access. So you're removing the bolt, then disconectting it from the engine side, then pulling the cable through. You may have to replace the cables as they will be hard to get back in and there's no extra slack in my experience.

Bias adjuster, the yellow arrows retain it to the threaded rod then it will unscrew. Hold the threaded rod while unscrewing with the adjuster knob. It may be seized up some from gunk. Red arrow captures cable, correct.

Master boots come off, just pry them off with something, then you unthread the rod from the bias bar, not the cylinder.

 

[Bill Wright]

Thanks, John.

I was writing from memory. I remember now that the clutch cable/guide does actually thread through the box. I'll release it at the actuator arm on the engine and pull it through.

I did get the throttle cable capture pinch off at the pedal, but you're right the end is buggered up and no slack to cut it.

So.......add clutch and throttle cable to parts list..........

 

[RushR.Rentals]

there is simply no reason to totally remove the pedal box from the car the welding can be done with the box still connected. just unbolt it from the floor and lift it up and out of the chassis. you can easily get at every place the boxes need to be welded.
it will take longer to take the boxes out than to just lift them up out of the chassis and load the car on the trailer and bring the hole car to a weld shop.
I just used a old broom stick slid thru the pedal box to hold it up and out of the chassis.

 

[John H]

Thanks, John.

I was writing from memory. I remember now that the clutch cable/guide does actually thread through the box. I'll release it at the actuator arm on the engine and pull it through.

I did get the throttle cable capture pinch off at the pedal, but you're right the end is buggered up and no slack to cut it.

So.......add clutch and throttle cable to parts list..........

No problem, hope they covered everything you asked.

The cables nothing fancy just buy 7x7 stainless wire rope of the proper diameter.

When you go to cut it, this method is really good for creating a non fraying end for future service.