Brake Pads

Sam Reed

Sandwich Retriever
RAW
Dec 14, 2022
80
58
18
Palmer, MA
I'm collecting information in this thread about brake pads that customers have run and data on the stock pads. I am not recommending pads on behalf of RAW, this is simply data that I have gathered in my own searching and consolidation of existing data.

The Rush SR runs calipers and rotors on all four corners that are the same size as the front pads on the Elise 05+, S2 Exige S (not S240/260, which had larger AP Racing calipers) and 211. This is known as the 2593 shape, which is shown below:

2593.png


Note there are 14.6mm thicknesses and 15mm thicknesses (also notated as 1587). According to Dave, 15mm will not fit, so make sure you get the 2593 shape.

The stock pads are a R1 Concepts competition pad, it's more of an endurance pad than anything. Initial bite is not very aggressive, but they are relatively inexpensive ($74.26/axle on the Spare Parts List) and will last a long time (20+hrs). Rotating them front to back will increase life as the fronts will show more wear.

Some drivers like more bite. From other posts by owners, the following pads have been tried with success:
  • Hawk HB180 S.560 (these are easy to find, see compounds list and attached photo with compound temperatures)
  • Performance Friction PFC-11 and PFC-13 (can't find a vendor yet, please let me know if you find one!)
  • G-Loc R12 (buy at InoKinetic)
As for compound, keep in mind that this is a light car so your pads aren't going to as hot as heavier cars will. This thread on rotor temperatures is a good illustration of that. In general, most amateur drivers should see around 800F, assume pads are roughly 200F more. John's a hot shoe and saw 1300F. Adjust according to your desired track and driving style.

Changing them out is not much different than doing so on an Elise.

If you have the older Braid silver wheels on your car, some modification is needed! See this helpful photo from an owner who is running PFC-11s. The wheels do not provide enough clearance and so a slight shaving of about 1mm is necessary. If you have the newer black RAW wheels, you should not have this problem as they were designed to provide just a little more clearance.

1684651442469.png


As always, if you change your pads, be sure to bed them properly. And if you have questions or need a new set of pads, call your dealer or RAW!

To other owners: what are you running? How do you like the pads?
 

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DrPyro2k

Rush SR Owner
Jan 1, 2023
51
30
18
Houston, TX 77079
The PFC-11 part number is 7824.11.15.44

You can get them from Matt @ Alfa9Supply.com by calling him or email info@alfa9supply.com

or


I have used Matt for years for PFC pads for my Alfa Romeo and Braid wheels for the Rush, and like the more personal service so I try and use him whenever possible. He is a quick email/call and he will get you setup and he is located in Colorado if that makes a difference...


There is a couple of notes to the PFC pads... They are TIGHT... So you MAY need to sand some of the rust coating off the metal to get them to slide better. AND you MUST sand some of the pad material off as they are slightly too thick to fit both pads in the caliper. Then you will need to remove some of the tab material if you have the silver wheels.

It may seem like a lot of work to get them to work, but their initial bit is MUCH more positive and good release feel. l personally like them MUCH better than the stock.
 
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Sam Reed

Sandwich Retriever
RAW
Dec 14, 2022
80
58
18
Palmer, MA

Licklobster

New member
Apr 21, 2023
21
9
3
Richmond Hill, GA
With the sharp dropoff in performance around 1100F with that friction material, wouldn't that be cutting it a bit close compared to the XR2/DTC-60-style pad?

It depends on how hot the brakes get. I've used every compound - don't like the 1s because they eat rotors and suck cold. The 2s are much more aggressive and grabby then the 3s, but I'm not convinced the 3s will fade - they don't die at 1100F, where are you seeing that? The Xr3 is an evolution of their old VR pad, which doesnt fall off until 1600F. The XR2 is good til 1650, and the XR1 fades at 1800F.

A lot also depends on driver, as mentioned - but also track and ambient heat. Some tracks are hell on brakes.
 
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Sam Reed

Sandwich Retriever
RAW
Dec 14, 2022
80
58
18
Palmer, MA
Re: the XR2 vs XR3, I was using the above Hawk chart as a reference, noting that Cobalt compares the XR2 to the DTC-60 and the XR3 to the DTC-30.

Have you found temperature charts for Cobalt by compound?

What do you think of, say, XR2/3 on front and XR4 on the rear?
 

John H

Rush SR Owner
Jan 1, 2023
115
57
28
De Leon Springs, FL 32130
to add some info.

The "universal" code for the shape is FMSI D109 FYI. You can cross reference a little easier with it.

I found some pads can have a little nub on the back (hawk specifically), depending on what style you buy. Has to be ground off to fit.
 

Licklobster

New member
Apr 21, 2023
21
9
3
Richmond Hill, GA
Re: the XR2 vs XR3, I was using the above Hawk chart as a reference, noting that Cobalt compares the XR2 to the DTC-60 and the XR3 to the DTC-30.

Have you found temperature charts for Cobalt by compound?

What do you think of, say, XR2/3 on front and XR4 on the rear?

They'll email you ranges if you ask for them. Xr4 probably overkill in the rear but don't let me stop you - I'd just use the stock ones til they're dead (and you now have two sets since you're replacing the fronts) The comparison is for friction coefficient, not temp range. Cobalts design philosophy is to use the pad with the friction you want, with all of them being more or less acceptable for track duty. In the case of oversized brakes and low weight of the rush, temp should be a non-issue